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Did the Web Kill Gourmet Magazine?

The murder happened in the kitchen with a laptop.

That possible explanation for the death of Gourmet magazine sounds like a solution from the game Clue. The 68-year-old food magazine met its end this month when publisher Condé Nast cut it and two other magazines. Some blamed Gourmet’s demise on the Internet and its theft of the print audience. It’s easy to see why.

For foodies, the attraction of thousands of food websites is powerful. Many home cooks now carefully position a laptop in the kitchen, keeping it safe from crumbs and splashes, instead of a magazine recipe. The loss of Gourmet, which was seen as a prestigious title, means that other food magazines may now feel a greater sense of insecurity.

But the threat to food titles goes beyond the mere existence of the web; it also comes from magazines’ challenges in the changing game of branding.

Getting to Know You

It might be tempting for some to blame the thousands of food bloggers for distracting audiences from print media.

There’s a food blogger for every ethnic specialty, dietary concern or locality. Bloggers offer personal connections, unique voices, and a passion for their subject that print magazines may not provide. Narrow expectations from readers and advertisers can limit print magazine content, while bloggers are more free to explore topics in frequent posts.

“I actually started going to food forums and sites because I got sick of seeing the same places and same eats in the same magazines,” said Titus Ruscitti, whose blog, Smokin’ Chokin’ and Chowing with the King, focuses on barbecue. “If a magazine like Gourmet or Bon Appétit or a show on Food Network is doing a special on Chicago, it’s always the same food, same places. The same goes for the recipes. I felt like they were all the same.”

Gourmet’s food coverage was also aspirational in nature, making it somewhat inaccessible for many people. In fact, it may have been too disconnected from readers’ changing tastes in the current economic situation. For most people, it’s easier to identify with a food blogger who lives a more ordinary life.

“I think food blogging has become so popular because the face behind the blog is a real person,” says Kath Younger of the blog Kath Eats Real Food. “Recipes are cooked in a real kitchen. Photos are taken as [the recipes] are consumed. I think readers enjoy reading the story behind the food as much as they enjoy the recipes.”

Beyond a Magazine Brand

To contend with these digital competitors, magazine publishers are extending their traditional print brands into digital media.

Jim Sexton, senior vice president and editorial director for Time Inc. Lifestyle Digital, oversees a number of the company’s websites that are linked to print magazines, including those for Real Simple, Southern Living, Cooking Light, Sunset and Coastal Living. Today, he says, those names need to evoke not just print magazines, but an array of media options.

“We’re making it so the brands are thought of as brands, as opposed to magazine brands,” he says. “The difference is thinking of Cooking Light as a magazine, a website, books, a brand that shows up on Twitter and Facebook, and in mobile. It’s a brand that the audience can connect to wherever they are.”

Magazine websites also are incorporating interactive features already found on blogs and in other social media. Cooking Light developed a video series, a blog and message boards, as well as integrating social media like Twitter and Facebook. Overall, though, the magazine and site emphasize expert-produced content, such as blogs written by a registered dietitian and by the test-kitchen cooks.

Experts and Users Online

However, Cooking Light and other food media with “expert” content have competitors that use low-cost content: recipe sites with user-generated content, like Allrecipes.com.

Allrecipes is part of the food and entertaining division of Reader’s Digest, along with the magazines Taste of Home, Simple and Delicious, Healthy Cooking and Every Day with Rachael Ray. It’s currently the top food website, drawing 10 million to 15 million visitors per month.

Though it sometimes features recipes from its affiliated magazines, Allrecipes primarily relies on its audience for content.

“All our recipes are created by home cooks, and we have partnerships with various advertisers who integrate recipes into the site,” says Judith Dern, public relations manager for Allrecipes.

Allrecipes’ content is also participatory. Users suggest modifications and substitutions that make the recipes more useful and dynamic.

Gourmet’s website, on the other hand, contained some links to social media, but few chances to engage actively with the magazine’s content. Although the “Gourmet Community” box on the site suggests becoming a Gourmet fan on Facebook, visiting their YouTube channel, downloading their iTunes podcasts and following staffers on Twitter, these are primarily passive activities that don’t build a community on the site itself. (Epicurious.com, which hosts recipes from Gourmet and other Condé Nast magazines, does have social features, but it’s barely mentioned on the current Gourmet website.)

Magazines Meet SEO

The competition between established, “expert” food media, like Cooking Light or Gourmet, and user-focused, interactive blogs and communities demonstrates the print magazine’s dilemma in going digital. Why spend money to produce high-end content when an individual cook’s blog or Allrecipes contribution can draw your audience just as easily?

To draw users to premium content, magazine websites are using search-engine optimization (SEO) techniques to elevate their site in search results. Editors now pore over every piece of content looking for opportunities to push their brand to the top of Google’s results.

Sexton’s concern is that when people type “chicken noodle soup recipe” into Google, they don’t necessarily care whose website they end up at. They just click on the top search results.

“More and more, people don’t care about brands,” Sexton says. “It’s an interesting challenge for companies based on brands. Do they resonate as well online when people have a thousand different choices for where to get a recipe? Even a venerable brand like Gourmet, unless they play the SEO game really well, the big name won’t matter to the audience.”

To hear that the “big name” doesn’t matter may come as a shock to magazines rooted in a print mentality. Maintaining an eye-catching, consistent cover aesthetic and perfecting the art of writing cover lines helped print magazines attract the attention of readers in the past. With just a glance at the newsstand, people could made a connection with a brand and a magazine’s content.

In the digital realm, however, instead of seeing a familiar face in a crowd and striking up a conversation, now the reader decides if an existing conversation is of interest before reaching out to a new friend. It’s up to magazines to make sure that the content attracts readers and draws them into a relationship with the brand — whether online or off.

Image of laptop by Eirik Newth via Flickr. Magazine stack by thebittenword.com via Flickr

Susan Currie Sivek, Ph.D., is an assistant professor in the Mass Communication and Journalism Department at California State University, Fresno. Her research focuses on magazines and media communities. She also blogs at sivekmedia.com, and is the magazine correspondent for MediaShift.

Susan Currie Sivek :Susan Currie Sivek, Ph.D., is an associate professor in the Department of Mass Communication at Linfield College. She teaches media theory, writing, and editing, and does research on magazines, social media, and political communication.

View Comments (34)

  • I remember Ken Olsen, founder and long time president of Digital Equipment Corp., stating that nobody needed a home computer as all they would be used for is storing recipes. If he only knew... we don't store recipes on our computers, they're off in the cloud and all we need is the internet. Still, we have to remain aware that everything has a cost and these recipe sites have to be funded somehow. (I like allrecipies.com) And, by the way, ever made a really BAD batch of cookies or whatever from a web-based recipe? When it happens it kinda makes you long for the imprimatur of Better Homes & Gardens or Joy of Cooking or Fannie Farmer or another dependable cookbook!

  • Comparing the content of Gourmet to Cooking Light is not a precise comparison. The reason is that there are many areas of the web when one can find Gourmet recipes. Cooking Light provides nutritional content, which most recipes - in print, but especially online from home cooks- does not. For people counting calories or points, or who just want to know how many grams of fat they're eating in a dish, Cooking Light provides a service that few magzines or internet sites do.

  • What killed Gourmet was the recession and the fatal drop in luxury advertising. I was the travel editor, and travel was our biggest category. I saw big advertisers disappear overnight. While online might be killing a lot of things, and while it might have eventually done in Gourmet, that wasn't the reason the magazine folded. Not even close.

  • William,

    I've seen the decline of luxury ads used as an excuse for shuttering the doors at Gourmet quite frequently, particularly in interviews with Ruth Reichl. I just find it incredibly difficult to believe that without the luxury categories, Gourmet was completely out of options and forced to fold.

    Now, I don't know if the Web had anything to do with the problems at Gourmet or not (you had over a million paying subscribers to the magazine), but it's absolutely bizarre to say that without luxury advertising, Gourmet was done for. Even if travel ads disappeared overnight, was it really expected that they'd be gone forever?

    My gut tells me that Conde Nast simply panicked and threw in the towel prematurely and this had less to do with Travel ads than everyone formerly at the magazine is saying publicly.

  • Ruth Reichl and others have said much the same, William, that luxury ad categories tanked.

    But I find that argument hard to believe as the sole cause of Gourmet's demise. You had over a million paying subscribers. Surely, there were other categories available or other options to keep the magazine afloat.

    I think there's more to be said about what really went on in the final days at Gourmet. Personally, I think Conde Nast panicked and threw in the towel prematurely, without bothering to look at possible long term strategies for keeping the magazine alive.

    Luxury advertising took a dive, yes, but I find it highly improbable that the bean counters in the suits at Conde Nast believed that luxury advertising is gone forever.

  • Good blog, pgotovo I like a laptop in the kitchen for recipes, food, good idea, one that I buy for my wife and immediately preparing live food via computer, ha ha ha

  • I confess, I've never read a copy of Gourmet. Not that I don't like food -- I live in Paris, after all -- but I came to cooking late enough in life that epicurious.com and other online sources were far ahead of what I could get from a magazine. That said, I've also worked nearly 20 years in the publishing industry. I suspect it's not the Internet that killed Gourmet... it's Gourmet that killed Gourmet. Content IS still king. It's the medium that's changed and it seems Conde Nast has failed to change with it.

    I just downloaded the Gourmet app on an iPad. It's miserably inadequate. Had they taken a cue from any of the news apps (NYTimes, USA Today, BBC) for design... or from the Epicurious app, which is exceptional... it's easy to imagine that they could have gone on to sell subscriptions and digital issues. But what they offer instead is 5-6 screen shots of pages and an order button.

    The business I work in had to reinvent itself too. We sell nothing but niche newsletters of 12-16 pages each. At the time when it looked as if the Internet would eat us alive, we changed our business model... and went from a $100 million a year business to a $300 million a year business.

    It can be done, provided you understand what it is you really need to do. I'm surprised that Conde Nast being Conde Nast has failed so far to do so.

  • There is simply not enough hours in the day to get everything done. I know the holiday issues are put together months in advance, but perhaps some last-minute sensitivity would have been appropriate.

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